take apart the big connector that connects the wires at the hatch and badly burned wires, two of them, one defroster and one I suspect was wiper motor wire, these were badly burned and obviously lost their conductivity and no wonder when you look at the small connector used. took the boot off from the rear tailgate where wires pass into the chassis up at the top and bingo. traced wires back from dash and had power all the way back to the rear hatch then nothing. Was not getting power to the grid and fuse was good and switch was clicking on ok. Rear defroster would work sometimes then stopped working. Ok, I spent so many hours trying to find this problem and I found it with help of others on this forum. Can someone help me out and confirm that I'm going about this the correct way? Was my troubleshooting of the wires on the back window correct? I should be able to take off the wires from the back window and connect my voltmeter to each wire and I should see a voltage, correct? Any help would be REALLY appreciated. This is where things get super fuzzy for me. Basically, this is telling me that the defroster button (switch) works, the relay works (as it clicks and tests 0 resistance), the terminals in the fuse box work as I can get 12V across the correct pairs. I then connected the opposite set of terminals with my volt meter and saw 12V. Pressing the defrost button and I saw 12V. While 9V was applied, I tested resistance across the other set of terminals on the relay, and was getting no resistance.īack under the hood, I took a volt meter to the same relay connection side in the fuse box. I pulled the relay and ran a 9V battery across the coil side, and could hear the relay click. Either side didn't give me any volts (just millivolts). So I checked each wire against a ground on the chassis. I checked the voltmeter, and it was showing millivolts. I turned the key to the second position (just before START), and turned on the defroster. However, I took a voltmeter to the 2 wires that connect to that "grid" (I disconnected them from the grid). I thought this was an issue with a broken wire on the glass. However, now the rear window won't defrost. In the past, I would turn on the rear defroster and the mirrors and rear glass would defrost. In addition, Mazda engineers received at their disposal the technology of a new partner, which formed the basis for all future models of the Japanese brand.The past couple of weeks, we've had some mornings that have frosted up my windows. However, in 1931 the first car under the Mazda brand was introduced - a four-wheeled light truck, which was very popular in the domestic automobile market in Japan.Īnd in 1932, its deliveries began on the automobile market in China, but already under the name Mazda Go.Ģ5% of the shares were bought back by the American concern Ford, which expanded its presence in the Japanese automobile market. In addition, from 1921 to 1931, the company was engaged in the development of several versions of motorcycles, but they did not go into a series. In 1920, the Japanese company Mazda was founded, which in the first years of its existence was engaged in the creation of machine tools, collaborating with the largest companies RX7, CX7, MPV Mazda EWDs Mazda Fault Codes DTC. #199 YUKON REAR HATCH LIGHT SWITCH WONT KEEP LIGHT OFF MANUALS#Some MAZDA Car Manuals PDF & Wiring Diagrams above the page - 2, 3, 5, 6, 626, 323, Bongo, Familia MZR Workshop Manual MX5, Miata,
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |